Pantograph Quilting Basics: How to Quilt Pantographs on Your Frame
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Time to read 18 min
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Time to read 18 min
Curious about Pantograph Quilting? This frame quilting technique helps you create gorgeous, flowing designs across your entire quilt top. Pantograph patterns are continuous-line, edge-to-edge designs that you trace with a laser light from the back of your machine.
Pantograph quilting might seem intimidating at first, but with a few simple rules and practice, you'll quickly master this quilting style. We all want our quilt tops to be beautifully quilted. Using pantographs to guide the design can help you create professional-looking results on ANY style of quilt frame.
Ready to start quilting?
In this tutorial, you'll learn:
Pantograph quilting is surprisingly easy, but there's one crucial step: advancing your quilt correctly.
Miss this, and you'll end up with a messy design. This is why I created a special color-coded advancing system. Follow these steps with any pantograph design from LeahDay.com, and you'll get great results with every quilt you create!
Jump Ahead in this Pantograph Quilting Tutorial:
Pantograph quilting is a method of tracing a printed paper pattern to create a continuous, repeating design across your entire quilt top. Using a laser light mounted to your machine, you trace the pantograph design and stitch edge-to-edge across the quilt. The result? A consistently spaced, seamless quilting design that flows across the quilt from edge to edge.
The beauty of pantograph quilting lies in its simplicity. You don't need to spend hours memorizing free motion quilting designs or invest thousands on a computerized quilting system. The paper pantograph guides you, providing a clear line that even beginners can follow easily.
You may not trace it perfectly - and that's okay! Pantographs create a soft, cuddly quilting texture that secures the layers together so your quilt can be used and enjoyed. On a typical patchwork quilt, small mistakes easily blend into the busy fabrics.
Many designers offer pantograph quilting patterns online, including me! Most pantographs are sold as physical printed paper that you'll unroll and secure to your frame's back table.
I found the cost of printing and rolling long paper sheets unsustainable for my small business. Many quilters also requested smaller pantograph quilting designs for home sewing machines. In 2021, I decided to redesign my pantographs to be more affordable, sustainable, and meet more quilter's needs.
That's why I offer downloadable pantograph patterns that include two sizes of each design. You can purchase and download the pantograph to your computer, then print exactly the number of copies you for your frame. This saves you money, time, shipping costs, and paper!
LeahDay.com pantograph patterns include two sizes of each design: 3½-inch and 7½-inch. Download the PDF and follow the instructions to print and prepare your pantograph for your quilting machine and frame.
Use the 3½-inch design for home machines. If you have a larger sewing machine machine like the Little Rebel, you can tape together two 3½-inch rows or use the 7½-inch design.
For even larger longarm machines, like the Q'nique 21X Elite, you can tape together multiple patterns to create the perfect size for your setup. This gives you maximum flexibility with your pantograph and creates a unique quilting design for your quilts.
The size of your machine determines the size of your pantograph pattern —bigger machines can quilt larger pantographs. Here's a chart showing which pantograph sizes work with different Grace Company machines:
Pantograph quilting requires these accessories for your quilting frame:
These accessories represent a significant investment, and pantograph quilting works best on a rolling rail frame. If you have a hoop frame or prefer a budget-friendly alternative without additional accessories, learn about quilting with stencils here.
Here's something many quilting tutorials don't tell you: pantograph quilting works completely differently depending on your frame type. Rolling rail frames and hoop frames require entirely different approaches, rules, and techniques.
Rolling rail frames are the original home of pantograph quilting. These frames allow you to quilt across the entire width of your project in one continuous pass, making it easy to maintain consistent spacing between rows.
Hoop frames present unique challenges for pantograph quilting. Because of their smaller quilting area, you'll often need to advance your quilt both side-to-side and forward, creating multiple "zones" that must align perfectly to achieve the same effect.
This is a crucial point —it's why many quilters struggle with pantograph quilting. They're following instructions meant for a different frame type!
Rolling rail frames work best for pantograph quilting. These frames extend larger than your quilt so you can stitch across from one edge to another in one pass. All videos in this tutorial demonstrate loading and quilting pantographs on rolling rail frames. Check out our current rolling rail frames from Grace Company below:
You absolutely can quilt with pantographs on a hoop frame, but this requires a different approach and specific rules to keep the designs aligned.
While researching and updating the Quilting Pantographs Guidebook in 2025, I have developed a new method for pantograph quilting on hoop frames. I also discovered creative ways to keep the designs aligned, including moving the pantograph when needed.
All these new techniques are included in the updated Quilting Pantographs Guidebook! If own a hoop frame like the Cutie Breeze, Q-Zone Hoop, or Evolution Hoop and want to try pantograph quilting, this guidebook will unlock beautiful results.
Pantograph quilting is an easy machine quilting technique, but requires a few special considerations:
For this reason, you need to take extra steps when loading the quilt to ensure great results.
Basting the edges of the quilt is especially important for pantograph quilting. If you don't secure the sides, the quilting foot will likely catch on the quilt edges, as you can see below:
Follow these steps to load your quilt on a rolling rail frame:
If you take the time to load your quilt properly for pantograph quilting, the entire process will proceed smoothly from the first stitch. Skip these steps and expect headaches throughout the entire process!
This is the method I use for loading my frames when quilting with pantographs, computerized quilting, or finishing a very special quilt.
No matter which style of frame you're using, make sure to only tighten the quilt to a "bouncy-tight" feel – firm enough to prevent puckers, but with enough give that the quilt can move naturally with your stitching.
With your quilting frame loaded, it's time to secure the pantograph pattern to the quilting frame. This is an important step where many beginners make a crucial mistake.
For some reason, quilters have a natural tendency to place the pantograph design too close to the back rail of the quilting frame. I did this myself the first time!
This is a mistake because as the project is quilted and advanced, the quilted section rolls up onto the back rail of the frame. This bulk pushes the machine forward, giving you slightly less space for quilting.
Over time, the vertical quilting space within your frame will shrink. For this reason, place the pantograph design centered in the middle of the frame's back table.
Roll the machine as far back as it can go on your quilting frame. Check where the laser light is shining and place the pantograph pattern so the bottom edge rests at least 2 inches above the light.
Roll the machine as far forward as it can go and check that the entire pantograph design fits within your machine's stroke. When in doubt, nudge the quilting design forward. Remember, the quilt builds up on the back rail of the frame, which pushes the machine forward.
Within the Quilting Pantographs Guidebook, I share an additional technique for marking your frame table with masking tape so you can perfectly position your pantograph design. This is an optional step, but it can really help if you are a visual person like me. Find to find the Quilting Pantographs Guidebook here.
When pantograph quilting, the first row of the design is very important. It sets the stage for the rest of the quilt and secures the top edge of the quilt.
Because quilts usually end with a partial last row, many quilters feel that starting with a partial first row looks "balanced," but you don't have to cut off the first row if you don't want to.
A partial first row is just for looks. It's not a requirement. If you find the extra steps of setting up rulers and positioning the quilt confusing, just stitch a full row and don't worry about it!
One last tip on quilting a partial first row with pantographs—only cut off ½ to 1 inch of the design. Remember, the goal is aesthetic balance, not maximum design removal. The more you cut off, the less quilting you accomplish in that row.
You can achieve the look by only removing ½ inch of the design. I promise, no one really cares if your quilt starts with a full or partial first row. It's 100% optional!
This brings up another point—perfectionism. We are tracing the pantograph design, but there isn't anything keeping us perfectly on the line.
Why does it feel so hard to trace and follow the line precisely?
The bigger your machine (and longarm machines can get REALLY BIG!) the more inertia it has. Controlling the movement and keeping the laser light tracing the pantograph precisely requires building new muscles in your arms, shoulders, and back.
The great news is the more you practice and quilt a particular pantograph pattern, the better you will get.
So please give yourself some grace! Don't expect perfection from your very first pantograph quilting.
Also be sure you aren't comparing your beginner quilting to computer-guided quilting designs. It's not the same. When a computer moves the machine, it's going to be perfect every time.
Professional-looking pantograph quilting has one requirement: evenly spaced, consistent rows of quilting. This is also where many quilters struggle, and I honestly think typical pantograph patterns are to blame.
When I began pantograph quilting, I found most designs were printed with just a faded shadow of the pantograph above and below the central pattern. It's pretty obvious that we trace the complete design in the middle... but what next?
I personally found using these patterns challenging. Where do I go? How do I advance the quilt? What do I do next?
After a lot of experimenting and stitching into blind alleys, I realized having lines marked on the pantograph paper was the key. After thoroughly studying this quilting method, I created a color-coded advancing system.
This system makes advancing your quilts easier because there's no guesswork! See how this system works and the secret to evenly spaced rows in the next video.
I hope you'll watch the entire video and see how this advancing system works. My pantograph quilting patterns have changed with the recent update of the Quilting Pantographs Guidebook , so they will look a little different from the video above. But the advancing system following the red and blue lines on the paper remains the same!
For rolling rail frames, the process is relatively straightforward: quilt to the red line, drop your needle, advance the quilt through the frame until the laser aligns with the blue line. The needle-down position locks your machine, quilt, and laser together as one unit. This way as the quilt moves, the machine and laser move too, helping you keep the quilt and pantograph pattern in sync.
Hoop frames require additional steps, including basting alignment lines that serve as reference points for each new zone. These basted lines are your insurance policy against crooked rows—they tell you immediately if your quilt isn't loaded straight.
There are a lot of moving parts when it comes to pantograph quilting, and a lot of things that need to stay in place... or else!
While studying pantograph quilting, I discovered a few rules that can make or break this quilting method. After a lot of trial and error, I also found these rules are different for different frame styles. Make sure to follow the rules for your quilting frame for best results.
Rolling Rail Frame Rules:
Hoop Frame Rules:
Want to know a cool recent discovery about pantograph quilting? When quilting on a hoop frame, I often break the rules for rolling rail frames! For example, I often move the pantograph paper on my hoop frame because it makes aligning the design easier.
If that's confusing, just remember to follow the rules for your frame listed above. You can learn much more about pantograph quilting in this guidebook!
No matter how long your quilt, the bottom edge will most likely not fit your pantograph pattern perfectly. This is why we end with a partial last row. This is the final step—quilting over the bottom edge of the quilt to secure the edge and keep the design continuous.
Quilting the final row is surprisingly easy... IF you took the time to baste your quilt when loading your frame. If not, take a minute now to baste stitch the bottom edge of the quilt and all sides.
If you don't secure the edges of your quilt, your quilting foot will catch on the quilt and flip it over, causing a big mess of stitches that'll need to be ripped out.
A partial last row is quilted almost the same as a partial first row, but we place the rulers covering the upper edge of the pantograph design. This creates an effect where the quilting flows naturally off the bottom edge of your quilt and into the batting.
Yes, you could quilt the entire pantograph completely—stitching over the edge of the quilt and batting. But this is extra stitching you don't need. Don't waste your time or bobbin thread!
As you build new skills for quilting, you may be wondering how this skill ranks with other longarm quilting techniques.
Pantograph quilting is a form of edge-to-edge quilting or all-over style quilting. We're covering the entire quilt, completely ignoring the patchwork or applique designs. By covering the entire quilt with pantograph quilting, we're able to finish our quilt quickly with a consistently spaced, soft quilting design.
Pantograph quilting is a nice way to finish bed quilts. But this isn't a method of quilting that will win you awards in quilt shows.
Why? Because quilt show judges want to see quilting that honors the patchwork or applique.
Custom quilting is a method of quilting unique motifs and designs into each area of your quilts. Instead of covering your patchwork with a random design, custom quilting highlights your piecing and applique. If you bothered to piece it, why not quilt it so it stands out?
Which is the best quilting method? Both are great methods to learn! Click Here to learn more about Custom Quilting.
Even if you follow every step perfectly, thread breaks still happen! If you notice problems with your quilt like skipped stitches, tension issues, or pleats, it's time to stop and troubleshoot.
Effective troubleshooting is a skill all on its own. Here is the key: change only ONE thing at a time, take notes, and stay calm.
Common issues when pantograph quilting often trace back to:
Incorrect foot height - This can cause thread breaks, skipped stitches, and a "stuck" feeling when rolling the machine over the frame. Use the Foot Height Gauge included with your Grace Company machine to ensure the foot is set to the correct height for quilting.
Improperly inserted needles - Longarm machine needles have a round shank, which makes inserting them more challenging than a home sewing machine. Use the Needle Alignment Magnet included with your Grace Company machine to ensure the needle eye is pointing in the correct direction. Also check that the needle is fully seated in the machine. Check the hole above the needle screw to see that it's fully filled with the top of the needle.
Thread quality problems - Most quilters don't know this, but thread can go bad. Even a brand new spool of thread can be bad! If your machine seems to want to eat your thread more than stitch it, you might have gotten a bad spool of thread. Try switching to a different type of thread, and if that immediately improves your stitches, throw the bad spool away!
Quilt tension issues - If you load your quilt too tight on your quilt frame, it can put too much tension on the needle. This can cause skipped stitches and even needle breaks. Make sure your quilt is loaded "taut" with some movement and play in the quilt sandwich.
Laser light movement - Nothing will misalign a pantograph design faster than bumping the laser light. Avoid hitting this device once you start pantograph quilting or you will see a noticeable jump in the design.
Have you run into another issue with pantograph quilting? Get in touch and share your experience! I'd love to add your input to this tutorial.
Not everyone falls in love with pantograph quilting immediately, and that's perfectly okay! For quilters who find the back-of-frame technique challenging, there is an alternative quilting method that gives you the same edge-to-edge quilting effect, but quilted entirely from the front of the frame.
Check out paper quilting stencils here
Paper quilting stencils can help you achieve the same quilted look, but with no additional accessories. If you're looking to save on cost, stencils are the way to go!
With this technique, you'll quilt through both the paper and your quilt at the same time, then tear away the paper afterward. Yes, this does add an extra step.
But for quilters who prefer quilting from the front of the frame, who don't want to invest in rear handlebars or a laser light, this is a great method to try!
Pantograph quilting opens doors to beautiful, professional-looking results that might take years of practice and memorization with traditional free-motion quilting. Yes, there's a learning curve, but with practice and patience, you'll be creating stunning quilts that showcase flowing, continuous designs.
Whether you're drawn to simple floral patterns or intricate, organic designs, pantograph quilting gives you the tools to bring those visions to life. The key is understanding your frame type, following the appropriate rules, and practicing with patience and persistence.
Ready to dive deeper? My comprehensive Quilting Pantographs Guidebook includes everything covered in this tutorial and much more: detailed frame-specific instructions, troubleshooting flowcharts, practice quilt materials lists, and even bonus designs to get you started.
If you've made it to this point, you've learned a LOT about pantograph quilting including:
How to load your frame for pantographs
Start quilting with a partial first row
How to advance the quilt and stitch evenly spaced rows across your quilts
Finish the quilt by stitching off the bottom edge with a partial last row
Common issues you'll need to troubleshoot while pantograph quilting
An alternative quilting technique with the same look as pantograph quilting, but stitched from the front of your frame
Do you still have questions about pantographs? Please reach out and ask! This post will evolve as my study of pantograph quilting continues. This is a wonderful way to learn quilting designs and finish quilts so they can be used and enjoyed. I can't wait to see the quilts you finish with pantograph quilting!
Let's go quilt,
Leah Day
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